Sibiu

***Storyline:* *Vidin to Ruse Bulgaria via Romania by train Jul – Aug, 2017***

The train was delayed: we didn’t arrive in Sibiu until late evening. It was the end of a big rock festival. Although we could walk to the studio we had rented, it was getting dark and we would also need to eat somewhere. Our hostess had given us instructions on how to unlock the gate to the house, but we had no idea how long it would take us to find it. Well, it was longer than expected even with a taxi. We had no Romanian SIM card for the phone, and although our Bulgarian one was supposed to work it didn’t, but wifi had so far been enough for all communications we needed. So, we opted for a cab. Our hostess had also e-mailed us instructions for the taxis the evening before we left Craiova. I read it in the morning just before we left the hotel behind, and of course the wifi with it. “It should be between 9 to 16 lei”, she wrote, “usually about 10. Take only the cabs that have number 3xx or 6xx (don’t recall the exact number) written on the car”.

As we walked out of the station there was a long row of taxis in all kind of sizes and numbers. We approached one with 6xx. “Twenty lei”, he said. As we moved on he shouted – “Look at my car. It is a better taxi”. We didn’t see anything better and after all one does not charge based on what they think about their cars. We walked to the very first car with the number 3xx and asked again. “Ten lei”, the guy said, and we hopped in. Ten minutes later we were on the street. “How is business?” “Now, very good”, he says. We told him we were surprised by the affluence in Craiova, but he didn’t think so. “Craiova is no good”, he says. “Here we are in Transylvania and it is good!”

As we chatted, we missed house #11 on our street. He stopped us in front on #21. It should be a few houses back, so we didn’t insist he find it for us. We walked to number 13A and then there was a high wooden fence with no sign or number. Nothing as a lock box or anything on the fence or around. We walked back and forth and could not find or see a number. Number 10 was next, so this wooden fence should be it, we thought. It was getting darker and after walking all the way to what we thought was the end (or the beginning) of the street and not being able to see a way to get through this high fence we decided to walk towards the centre and see if we can find someone who could help us with a phone. We passed #1. This was the beginning of the street, right…? Then we noticed an elderly couple 2 doors down a luxury looking house with high metal fence. We asked for #11, but we actually didn’t have to. I doubt they understood us, but they saw our suitcase and pointed to this same luxury house. By that time the owner popped her head from a window quite frustrated, since she had something else to do, but didn’t know if we had received her e-mail with the instructions and the code for the box. “No good without phone”, she says. Well this is only our second day in Romania and our Bulgarian SIM was supposed to work, I am thinking. And I had sent her a confirmation e-mail in the morning. Anyway, we chatted a bit. It was quite late by then and we were glad she sent us in a nice pub/restaurant around the corner to dine. But we found the studio overpriced for what it was.

Tired and thirsty we ordered light dinner and called it a day.

The next day we walked everywhere. We really loved this medieval town with its Germanic architecture, and houses from different eras, dating as far back as the 12th century. It is a small town, so one can walk to everything around the centre in half a day.

But don’t get me wrong. It is packed with history, charming houses, sightseeing, impressive churches and cathedrals, museums and art galleries. The big square and the small square and the surroundings were full of buzzing restaurants and cafes. I really liked the small square, where we had lunch watching the world go by.

Later in the afternoon, while Alex was climbing the Council Tower, I sat in a café, that seemed to be part of the Luxemburg House hotel, by the Liar’s bridge enjoying the sun and buzz around me while writing my notes. This bridge is one the most important tourist attractions, because of the many legends about it. They all lead to the belief that one should not tell a lie within hearing of the bridge, because every lie weighs on the bridge until it collapses. Apparently, the communist dictator Ceausescu once spoke on it and it survived, but he never returned to this city he hated.

We then walked by the old city fortifications, and then through the Lower Town with many colourful houses, where apparently the ordinary people lived.

The most amazing and unusual architectural sights for us were the houses with the “eyes”: small vents peering from the attics of the houses that looked like eyes on the roofs. Sometimes one can’t help but thinking these eyes are watching them. As a matter of fact, during periods of oppression people believed that they were being watched by these eyes.

It is a lovely city I’d love to revisit and stay for a week or two, soaking in the bohemian atmosphere, strolling down the cobble streets and listening to the music during the numerous summer festivals.

Things to do

There are many things to see and do in the smallish city centre. Sibiu hosts a variety of music festivals during the summer month. It is also to be the Gastronomic capital of Europe for 2019. The Upper and Lower Town are separated by stairways and passageways one can easily spot.

Some major landmarks:

Piata Mare – the big square
Piata Mica – the small square
Religious landmarks – visit the 3 major (and several other) churches of different Christian denominations
Council Tower – climb the 141 steps of the tower and enjoy the views
Bridge of Lies – just don’t tell a lie
Art Museum – Brukenthal National Museum
Old towers and fortifications – stroll by the walls
Lower Town – you can take any of the stairways to it and soak in the local life through the narrow streets and small squares
And yes, you won’t forget to stare at the eyes of Sibiu