Storyline: Atlantic Canada, Take 2
Tue, June 7 – Thu, June 8
It is the smallest province of Canada in terms of land (only 5,600km2) and population (about 166,000) which is less than the 30 most populous cities in the country. They say that it is most densely populated, but driving through it will give you the impression you are alone. We of course as usual explored the small picturesque roads, this time just through the middle of the province. I had booked only 3 days in PEI mainly to use the 3 days that we needed to wait until a campground on Cape Breton where we wanted to stay opened for the season. Everything opens much later in the Maritimes.
We have been to PEI before and done the touristy things, so this time decided to just enjoy the national park and the fresh food. PEI National Park is genuinely stunning. On the edge of Cavendish Beach with ocean views to die for.
We left Shediac early in the morning, took some small roads to the Trans Canada Highway that lead us to the Confederation Bridge. (Diana isn’t comfortable crossing high bridges, and this one is an amazing 13 km or so long! So it was eyes closed and hands gripping the seats while Alex drove us across. Alex claims that there are still “claw” marks on the side of the seats! – Well, this is one of Alex’s exaggerations when he makes fun of me.)
We arrived at the campground before noon, on the day they opened for the season. We were one of the first to check in. That afternoon they were expecting 35 RVs or so, and within two weeks the campground of almost 300 sites (plus over 100 sites at the Stanhope Beach campground) would be full for the remainder of the season.
For the first time in weeks, the weather was nice, sunny and not too cold. From our campsite we could see and hear the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. If one chose an unserviced site, there are many right on the water near the edge of the cliffs.
It is a big and well-maintained campground, excluding the potholes that naturally enforce the 10km speed limits on the dirt roads. Free hot showers with good water pressure and hand-held shower heads. Bathrooms were cleaned regularly a few times a day even at the beginning of the season.
There are nice walks through the park and many photographers were looking for the cliff swallows that nest in the cliffs below the campground. That area is cordoned off to protect the birds’ habitat.
We didn’t see any, though. Although we did see many dead fish and crab washed up on the shore.
For those of you who have not been to PEI, it is famous for its red rocks and soils. And its delicious oysters. They are quite crumbly though (not the oysters). Therefore, the red soil is everywhere. It is a fertile agricultural land, known for its potatoes. This small island produces 25% of Canadian potatoes. Being on the ocean of course there is no shortage of fresh seafood. Lobster, halibut, oysters, mussels, all caught the same day as served! Could not be any fresher and tastier.
We also decided against taking the 75-minute ferry ride to Nova Scotia because we had to pay $135 for the van ($84 for a regular vehicle). Although the drive is longer when taking the bridge and driving around, the elapsed time is much the same. And the bridge toll was only $50. One pays only to exit the province, so the toll is really for a return crossing. I am glad we avoided the ferry. The winds were strong and waters choppy both times we crossed the Confederation Bridge.
The bridge over the Northumberland Strait was built in about 4 years and was open for traffic in 1997. This toll bridge spans 12.9 km (8.0 mi) connecting Borden-Carleton, PEI with Cape Jourimain, NB. It’s Canada’s longest bridge, and the longest in the world to span ice-covered waters.
In early 2022 the PEI provincial government voted, subject to Federal Government approval, to change the official name of the bridge to Epekwitk Crossing, being the traditional Mi’kmaq name for the Island. But Islanders will probably still refer to it as the Fixed Link.
Spending time in the National Park and its environs made sense to us. One of the nice evenings with fewer mosquitoes (they don’t like the winds, do they) we cooked our Shediac meat and veggies. But as the previous post mentions we had a better offer on PEI than our own made food. We had already decided that this will be our seafood gourmet trip. Shortly after we set up out campsite, we drove to the first gourmet experience.
Oysters at Carr’s Oyster Bar, Stanley Bridge: the nearest to us. It was nice to be able to sit outside on the terrace although still on the chilly side. We were prepared. Oysters were the ones we often get in Toronto – Malpeque. They had small and big and we ordered half a dozen of each. They also had local beers. Wine was from Ontario and Australia. I had a glass of the Pelee Island Chardonnay. Worked really well.
One of the first thing you’d notice driving around are the wild lupins lining the road. They create a beautiful border around the vast red-soiled farmlands.
Did I say the weather was good? Our luck with the sunny and dry weather didn’t last long. It ran out the first day. Good we cooked all our food the first night. It poured during the night. Luckily, we had our chairs covered with a tarp, so they only needed a bit of ventilation. Once the winds died the next day, we opened everything up under the awning and then put the dried items back in the van. Next day was cloudy and threatening.
After lunch we drove to Fisherman’s Warf at North Rustico. Parked our van aiming for the 4pm lobster supper. There is a nice boardwalk from the Warf to the harbour. The weather was still holding un, so we walked along, stopped in small shops with local food (jams mainly), checked the fish store (if you go there, you can buy fresh fish for your BBQ), but there’s a lot of frozen, too. I bought a few little memories from the gift store and Alex got his local rhubarb and strawberry jam. Not all stores were open either.
Walked up the boardwalk to the harbour, accompanied by a light drizzle. The Blue Mussel Café we were considering was closed that day. There was another seafood place right on the water that we didn’t check, but Diana had researched their menu online and wasn’t particularly interested…too much was deep fried or mayonnaised.
Back to the Warf, just in time to be the first seated. We selected the furthest table by the window for Alex’s isolation. This lobster place is an experience. They have a salad and dessert bar with over 60 different items. A pound of lobster each with all you can eat from the salad bar (seafood chowder and mussels included in addition to other hot items we didn’t check.
The bill actually was less than expected or we paid at any other place in PEI. Under CAD100 taxes included. You order and pay before you are seated. If you order alcohol from the server, you pay separately at the end. For the fun of it we accepted their offer to use lobster bibs. Alex had a local beer and I stuck to the Ontarian white wine This, plus tip on the entire bill, added another $40, and it was worth it.
We had time in the evening to put the griddle and other stuff that had dried back in the van. Left the rug under the table. Just in time. Once we jumped in, it drowned us (or the van) with water.
Next day was supposed to be cloudy with no rain. It drizzled the entire day. Before we headed for our last gourmet experience at The Blue Mussel Café in North Rustico Harbour we put the rug on the picnic table to dry. We were lucky it did, so nothing wet was packed back in Doranya.
Arrived at the Blue Mussel Café just after opening time (11:30am) and were lucky to be seated at a table on one of the terraces, mind you it was the bar terrace with tall stools. Oysters were a fresh catch from the harbour and so was the halibut.
From the morning! Never had anything so fresh. We really liked the Daisy Point oysters. They are fool bodied and to us, tastier than the famous Malpeques. More like what one gets from the Pacific coast. And who can complain about the freshest halibut we’ve ever had.
We also decided to try their local seafood smoked charcuterie board (in house cold smoked mackerel & salmon, house cured gravlax, house made preserves, local cheeses & meats, crostinis, candied pecans, seasonal fruits & pickled veg). Now this alone is a meal for two (pigs or four normal folk – A). We picked a bit of some cheeses (delicious). Local meats were turkey and pork. The preserves of asparagus, peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, beets, radishes and many more were also great. We not only had this for dinner, but had it for lunch on the road the next day and still had some for the following day.
That is how our gourmand tour ended in PEI. There is a lot more to say and do there. One can spend a month and not cover it all, although it is not a big island. If you get a chance, go and enjoy it!
Join the conversation around our e-Table