Storyline: Atlantic Canada, Take 2
Jul 8 – Jul 20
In my last post we were still in Newfoundland, boondocking in front of St. Anthony’s hospital emergency department after Alex had tested positive for Covid and we had sought medical advice, given his immuno-compromised condition.
Next morning, we headed back to Port aux Choix with the idea to self-isolate at the Ocean View RV Park campground. It is next to the Foodland grocery store and I was told I can do the shopping. It also is much closer to Deer Lake, which is the western Newfoundland hub for the north-south and east highways, and has better hospital facilities if needed. To our surprise when we arrived at the campground, there was not a single spot left.
Not even the overflow area by the road and dump station: two large groups had reserved all the spots. The guy sent us to the Sea Echo Motel and Campground in town. The campground is behind the motel, and is in reality just some parking spots with RV services. We were lucky to get a spot sheltered behind a cottage that protected us from the howling winds. To a certain extent. There was electricity and water, but no other facilities such as washrooms and showers and no dump station. By the time we hooked up the weather had closed in. The pizza ordered from the motel’s restaurant would be our dinner and next morning’s breakfast. That morning and the entire day we were van-bound even if we hadn’t had to isolate. Never in my life I have seen such weather – downpour is not the word since the water was moving horizontally and the van rocking with the gale probably at 100km/h, despite the protection of the cottage from the ocean side which was from where the wind previously came; the weather now came from the opposite direction. Had the feeling we were drowned in the ocean, if we could have actually seen anything from the windows.
In a day or so the skies cleared enough for us to try to reach Deer Lake. Unfortunately, there was nothing available there. No campground spot nor motel or hotel room. We were already in the high tourism season and having missed our scheduled bookings we were facing the challenges of finding appropriate overnight places. Eventually Alex would find a few nights in a hotel at a ski resort just outside Corner Brook. At that point we still didn’t know what our next steps would be. In the meantime, I wasn’t feeling well and although my tests were negative, being in a small space with Alex, I didn’t stand a chance of Covid sparing me. I had a slight fever and mildly sore throat.
Next morning, after dumping our waste tanks at the Ocean View RV campground, we headed for the hotel. I was feeling well enough to be behind the wheel. One last stop before we left this beautiful and unique west coast was in The Arches Provincial Park.
It really is a lovely spot and we are glad we didn’t miss it. We were not close to other people. I’d say with that stop, and excluding L’anse aux Meadows (which we’ll forever regret missing) we’ve covered the main attractions of the west coast of Newfoundland.
Our visit to the Arches was short – about 30 minutes for some socially-distanced photos – then we continued south. The drive was uneventful except for the sight of an unfortunate travel trailer that had somehow ended up in the northbound ditch. Next stop was at the Foodland grocery store in Deer Lake to stock up for the next few days: a store-roasted chicken being high on the list. This chicken would be stretched for a few days, since the advertised kitchenette at the hotel suite wasn’t really fit for cooking. We had a sink, a microwave and a toaster. Not even plates and utensils. But lots of wine glasses. There was a restaurant open for dinners but we were still self-isolating. Being locked in at the hotel, we decided that it would be best to head to the mainland as soon as we were allowed. Rebooking the remainder our itinerary was impossible as sites were no longer available and we still didn’t know how Alex would progress despite the fact that so far, he had only mild Covid symptoms. And so, the cancelation of reservations began. Having spent months in research and booking, that kept me busy for more than a few hours.
Alex cancelled the August ferry from Argentia, near St. John’s, and booked the first available from Port aux Basques to North Sydney Once again he would be taking the trip overnight. I changed my August flight from St. John’s to one from Deer Lake to Halifax the same day as Alex’s ferry.
Alex tried to assure me that he’d be OK on the 6+ hours ferry and the four-hour drive from North Sydney to Halifax. (I was right, for once! But I needed a nap once I reached the hotel in Halifax. – A). Yes, but attempting to stay awake resulted in him having sore throat for weeks because of singing at the top of his lungs for hours.
There was enough time for Alex to visit the railway museum in Corner Brook (outdoors part only), something that had been in my initial plan together with a few more significant sites in this city.
In Halifax all I could find was the Best Western Plus on Chocolate Lake. I had to spend a night there before Alex could join me. We’d been to Halifax in 2010, so it was time to revisit. Despite the high price we decided to stay at that hotel for a few nights and re-explore the city. We’d been to the Citadel and the Public Gardens nearby, so this time we opted for a gourmet tour on the waterfront.
We’d walk from the hotel downhill to the waterfront restaurants, have fresh oysters and other fresh sea food and walk back uphill to the hotel. This round trip was about 10 km. And we both were well enough to do it every day.
We found and booked almost the last spot at the Lunenburg RV campground. We had fond memories of this little picturesque town too. This quaint town is known for its many-hued buildings, history in the fishery and as builder of superb vessels. In fact, one of Canada’s most famous schooners, the Bluenose, was built here. The Bluenose was a working vessel that also won every race it had with its US-based counterparts. Bluenose is remembered on every Canadian dime (10 cent piece).
Our stay in Lunenburg didn’t go to plan. The first day, we walked to the waterfront and sat on the dock in one of our favorite restaurants from 2010 that was still doing well, given the fact that many went under during Covid.
There were no fresh oysters (big disappointment!) but the scallops and mussels were really fresh and delicious. Check. Back to the campground on a sweltering summer day we found the showers quite appalling. The campground was busy and sites really small. Put simply we didn’t like it. The next day I felt ill. Or perhaps the right wording is extremely tired. Covid had taken away the pleasure of our road-tripping. The best was to just head home until we completely recovered. And so we did. With minimal overnights on our way back. Except the 2 nights at Montmagny where I enjoyed my favourite brined bourgots (whelks).
It was a disappointing end to our trip, cutting a full month from our planned three-month trip. But better safe than sorry, and this wasn’t to be our last tour in Doranya!
And although this is my last post from our summer roundtrip, Alex is so behind with the videos (he says lack of motivation and disappointment after we had to turn around) that I believe we’ll have some content from the trip well into December.
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