Storyline: Advantures in our back yard
Our trip started with visiting the Toronto Fall RV Show and Sale (part Ontario’s RV Shows) with our own RV (Recreational Vehicle, for those outside of North America) Doranya. Just because it was the first of its sort after two years of Covid hiatus. We were surprised by how many other motorhome owners were parked around in the parking lot. Checking all exhibited campervans, we concluded that ours was still the best for us (no exhibitor had our model though) and off we went to say goodbye to our Cuban friends. They are moving to a warmer climate in Florida. We are not happy with their decision for many reasons I won’t discuss here. It was Magdy’s last day at work. Not sure about Leah’s school though. Being born here she is the real Canadian in the family, but too young to have her voice heard. Couldn’t tell much about Ernesto aside from the fact that he is quite confused, but Leah wasn’t happy with her parents’ decision. After having the traditional Cuban black beans and rice dinner and a final farewell (probability to never see them again are pretty high) we departed for a quiet night at the Waterdown Walmart parking lot.
On Saturday morning we took the slow picturesque roads through unspoiled farmland to the shores of Lake Erie.
Stunningly vibrant fall colours complemented the crisp air. It was probably a good time to scout Rondeau Provincial Park.
And so, we did. Given the cold weather I was surprised how busy the campgrounds were. But perhaps people had booked well in advance at the season opening.
Camping in any Provincial or National Park in overpopulated Ontario requires planning a year ahead. Not for retirees acting on the spur of the moment. Luckily there were quite a few available spots, and we were sent to choose one.
We liked the north part of the park better and found one relatively private spot. This and our next provincial park offered sites with electrical services, with water and dump stations being available elsewhere in the campground.
We had enough time to walk through the park and on the beach. Winds were picking up and bringing heavy clouds.
Close to the sunset the winds were so strong that I had to shelter inside Doranya.
Alex did his final walk and sunset photography on his own.
It rained overnight but by the time we had our coffee and tea it was dry and the sun was peeking through the clouds.
Time to head for the next campground, Wheatley Provincial Park. Arrived there before noon and were sent again to find a spot. We did, but I didn’t like this park. Roads were too narrow and too many big rigs were heading towards us instead of following a one-way path, which of course wasn’t well-marked. The good thing about showing up at the gate was no reservation fee. Reservation fees online or by phone call are quite steep. But of course, one can bet on availability only off season. The forecast was for rain later in the evening and the next few days. A change from the forecast just 2 days ago.
If we wanted to visit Point Pelee, this was our last chance. So, we hurried to the National Park. There were many detours on the road. Apparently, the shore highway was undermined by the lake and therefore completely closed for a number of kilometres.
We arrived around 1pm at the Park’s Information Centre some 7+ km from the entrance and 2.5 km before the Point itself.
Skies and waters were incredibly blue; white speckles of clouds in the sky and white wave caps in the lake reflecting the sunshine.
On our way to the Point, we took the path meandering through the sands and shrubs by the beach.
I was surprised to find prickly pear cacti among the shore vegetation. Didn’t know there’d be any wild in Ontario. There were also quite a few monarch butterflies (hard to photograph with a phone camera though).
We reached the bird observation tower known as The Tip Tower. It however was closed due to safety issues. So, no climbing for better views. But the day was picture perfect. Literally!
By now the strong winds had painted the baby blue sky with white brush. One could see the winds! As though the painter wind was madly swishing its brush across the canvas.
A shuttle had just dropped a bunch of people at the Point. We were taking our time letting the crowds thin.
There were many signs around warning the visitors about the well-known strong currents and undercurrents that had taken lives here again and again.
Walking towards the Point one could see the currents to our right, the undercurrent to our left and the maelstrom as they met.
Point Pelee is the southernmost point of Canadian mainland, extending 15km into Lake Erie. At 41° 57’ it is in the latitude of Northern California. Canada’s second smallest (Georgian Bay Islands being the first) yet the most ecologically diverse national park. Birdwatchers from all over the world flock here to observe birds’ migration and admire the surrounding nature.
We only had a few hours, but I am sure we’ll be back for more. The name comes from the French pelée, meaning bald. This spit of land is formed of glacial sand, silt and gravel and was the first Canadian national park to be established as a conservation area in 1918, after relentless appeals from birdwatchers and hunters. It also is the traditional territory of the Three Fires Confederacy of First Nations of the Ojibwa, the Odawa, and the Potawatomi.
We walked on the sand strip of the Point, taking our time to enjoy the spectacular views. With the sky painted in blue and white the inland views were the fantastic.
I was surprised by the quality of my phone camera that captured the vibrancy of it all. But one could see that bad weather was coming.
We walked back to the Information Centre (the last summer parking lot before the Point) on the road. This is where the shuttle takes people from the parking lot to the Tip Tower.
Aside from butterflies, turkey vultures and shuttles full of people, I observed a strange fruit. Later I used Google image search to determine that it was the fruit of the Carrionflower.
Forecast was for rain at night and the next few days. I had a free night at Best Western Hotels gained during our stay in Halifax in the summer. The promotion was stay 3 nights and get one free. Given the forecast and the fact that we had a long way with many detours on dirt roads to get back to Wheatly Provincial Park, which I didn’t like to begin with, I called the central Best Western Hotels from the Pelee Point Visitors Centre.
There isn’t any phone/cell reception in the park, just the land line. There is a Best Western Plus in Leamington, just outside the entrance of the park. Could I use the free night this evening? Yes, they said. And so, we were set for the cold and rain this evening. Unfortunately, it wasn’t going away, the rain that is.
I booked a second night there with the hope that we could at least visit Amherstburg the next day and a few wineries on the way back. Battling strong winds, Doranya delivered us to the Navy Yard National Historic Site at Amherstburg.
It wasn’t a time to stroll through the town streets with ice-cream in hand. But we managed to take a few shots at the monument and Detroit River mouth to Lake Erie before the rain.
We headed to a winery on Hwy 20 that I had selected for its name: Dancing Swallows Vineyard. There was also a brewery next to it. Alas it was Monday and none of them worked.
Change in plans. We’ll stop only in two major wineries.
Next on the road was in Harrow – Colio Estate Winery. It was open and the rain was on and off so parking Doranya in front we managed to jump inside. Here is where Alex had enough wine for the day. In this winery one pays $10 for four 1oz (~30ml) tasters. It was expensive! You pay $10 for 120ml! We decided on 4 reds and 4 whites anyway since this could have been our only wine testing. I only had a sip of each. It didn’t take a lot to determine which I liked. The rest was for Alex. So basically, at the end of the tasting experience (water and crackers between shots) he had 8oz (240ml) wine. The chatty lady recommended The Georgie’s Restaurant and Pub. It’s a brand-new place and it was open on Mondays, she said. A box with close to dozen wines in Doranya, we stopped in front of the pub.
Menu was really good but by this time Alex had found a restaurant and winery a bit further in our direction to Kingsville, that seemed to be open. He even managed to see the menu of the restaurant. Salmon and barramundi were on the list. The latter should have triggered my suspicion. We have only had barramundi in New Zealand and Australia. It is a warm water fish. But who knows? It is a strange world. Perhaps they had imported it. Wait a second…in a remote place like Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards and The Vines Restaurant?! (Later Alex would realise he was on the website of a US restaurant chain with the same name.)
Nevertheless, we headed that direction. Alex semi-drunk didn’t want to have another tasting experience so we won’t know if one had to pay for it in Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards. We headed directly to the restaurant and to our disappointment the menu was really small, with mostly deep-fried items. I selected the beet salad and Alex the warm baguette and butter. A glass of wine came with it – not for free of course. Needless to say, that as a designated driver I only had a few sips. The rest was Alex’s. We then bought 2 of their wines. The one that I had ordered in the restaurant, a dry chardonnay, and one with a French name. It was their best seller the lady said.
By now the rain and winds were quite something. And we still had to visit Pelee Island winery in Kingsville. We parked in front of the winery, rain literally horizontal, and waited for the squall to settle before running inside. The surprise here was that the tasting was free or sooner based on donations for the local food bank and Ukraine or so. We had quite a few samples, mainly of wines that were not sold at LCBO (the Ontario liquor board). However, we could order directly from the winery, the guy said. That is good because we didn’t have room into the van for more boxes. Nevertheless, we ended up buying 6 wines packed in a small box, plus some other goods. Since we tasted more than 6 wines, we were also gifted a wine glass to add to my glass collection.
Doranya, well stocked with wine, took us back to the hotel. The weather forecast was no good. We’d still be waiting for the return of a few sunny days. We decided to cut the trip short and head back home. Good we did.
Next day we drove through heavy rain and even snow squalls. In mid-October?! As I am writing this at home, it is still peeing rain.
There are many national historic sites in the area we visited. Coupled with many great wineries of which we’ve only knew about two, this southern area bordered by the Detroit Rive and Lake Erie is to be revisited soon. Perhaps later this year.
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