Storyline: Westward Ho!
Wed, Jun 28
The Alaska Highway in BC is BC 97. It crosses the BC – Yukon (YT) border a few times. Driving from south the first one is a short section with crossing at Mile 585 on BC 97 and back within a kilometre or so. A short blink and back into BC. A second entry to YT continues after about 8 or 9 km. Short dip into BC and back into YT. Still the same BC 97. Then there is a long south turn into BC, crossing the Hyland River, a tributary to Liard River, meandering around Liard River and finally crossing into the Yukon for a longer but not the last time. At that point Alaska Highway becomes YT Hwy 1.
We left Liard Hot Springs just before 8:30am. Immediately after exiting the campground and joining the highway we had to stop. A big herd of bison was crossing the road in front of us. It was my first sight of bison.
I had hoped to spot a few along the road, but so many and so close was beyond anything I could imagine. Quite a few calves among them. It was our day of wildlife encounters and capturing them on camera.
We only just passed the bison and here in the ditch we have a bear. We had spotted quite a few on the road before but were unsuccessful in capturing them on camera. And then several more bison.
We stop for a photo at the “Welcome to Yukon” sign at the first BC-YT crossing shortly after 10am. The highway of course is following the topography, mainly following Liard River, not the straight-line of the 60th parallel that defines the borders between the territories and the provinces south of them. Since we would not drive into the Northwest Territories from Alberta in our case, we’d cross the 60th a few times between BC and YT.
About half an hour later, we’d stop for another photo op with this time a bigger “Welcome to Yukon” sign. We stopped for a longer break and lunch at Watson Lake. We checked the campground too, but it was way too early to settle.
Alex had fun wandering among the signs of the Signpost Forest. Shortly after Watson Lake we crossed the Liard River at Upper Liard Crossing and driving northwest we crossed Rancheria River.
Hwy 1 followed the north shore of Rancheria, although it didn’t meander as much as the river. Then we crossed the river again and dipped south now following Swift River. And then for one last time we crossed the 60th south to BC where the Swift River flowed in and out of Swan Lake. Swift River will eventually reach Teslin Lake further south in the BC part of the lake, while the Hwy 1 (aka Alaska Highway) will swing back north and cross the 60th again near Morley Lake and staying north of Morley River. We are now in YT and will be here for some time. A week at least. Morley River will flow into Teslin Lake at Morley Bay.
Our destination for today is the village of Teslin. There is an RV park named “Yukon Motel and Restaurant” and perhaps a few other options. We had called the campground from Watson Lake and they told us that they had many full-service sites, no reservation needed.
Approaching Nisutlin Bay Bridge we came across another big construction area. The Teslin campground is just after the bridge. It is a big place run by local indigenous community with a gas station and a small gift shop-restaurant. The full-service sites were taken. We were told that construction workers are using them, but we could take two adjoining spots with water and 20-amp electric service. Worked for us, since it was an end spot by the lake.
Not a lot of visibility of the lake though. And it was extremely buggy. It was also extremely busy with trucks and campers stopping to fill at the gas station, which as every other gas station run by the natives was cheaper that others. On top of that they had a discount for those who camped there, which again is everybody, since no one asked for proof.
Thu, Jun 29
Today we are due at Erin’s parents’ (Garth and Laurie) place. The initial plan was for us to overnight at Watson Lake. Driving from there to Haines Junction could have been too long and we didn’t want to arrive late, tired and grumpy at our hosts. We’d stop at Whitehorse we thought. Then Michael suggested we could overnight at Erin’s parents place on Marsh Lake, about 45min before Whitehorse. During our previous day’s drive though, we had advanced quite a lot. Teslin lake was about an hour from our next stop. We didn’t have anything to do in such a busy and buggy campground, but arriving so early would not be appropriate either. We’d go and do our shopping in Whitehorse and then back to Marsh Lake. And so we did.
Filled up with gas and left the campground just after 10am. While reaching the south end of Marsh Lake an oncoming pickup truck “shot” a stone at Doranya’s windshield. It created a small crack. We had driven about 6,600 km, driving behind and being passed by huge trucks, on dirt roads, on gravel roads, on washboard surfaces. Nothing like that. Now on a well-paved part of the Alaska Highway we had our windshield cracked.
Well, we had a task for Whitehorse. Find a glass repair company. There were two according to Mr. Google. We’d only find one. But before that Alex wanted an oil change. We found Jiffy Lube in a narrow alley, managed to manoeuvre and get into the tiny space. Next – the windshield repair. It wasn’t far from the oil change.
Yes, they’d do it. It would take about half an hour since it was only a small “ding” and could be repaired rather than replaced. While Alex was waiting, I walked across to an apparently famous bakery. Ordered a cappuccino, soup and some savoury pastry and texted Alex to find me there. He did. He also ordered his lunch there. Food was delicious. So much so that we’d revisit the place the following day. After lunch we headed back to Marsh Lake. We’d do the shopping tomorrow.
Our hosts waited for us with wine and snacks. They have a lovely house, full of Laurie’s plants, windows facing the lake. Laurie’s green thumb showed everywhere. She had a big greenhouse, full of vegetables, flowers and all kind of plants spread in the yard. Pity we didn’t take a few photos.
I guess the company was more entertaining than the photo taking process. Erin stopped by in the late afternoon. I am not sure how these kids do it (well forty something with kids themselves they are still the kids for us. approaching seventy. No offence Erin and Michael). We had lovely dinner and then Erin left. It was late, and she went shopping in Whitehorse about 50 min away and then drove home which is about 2 hours away from Whitehorse. All I know was that she managed to buy what was needed for our stay at their place.
Fri, Jun 30
Today we’ll finally reach our destination. We had nice breakfast and final chat with Garth and Laurie. Lovely people, great hosts! We’ll miss them. Too bad they live so far away. But we’d be extremely happy to host them if they come to Ontario and the GTA.
We then drove to Whitehorse. There was an indigenous event, Adäka Cultural Festival. Parked Doranya nearby and walked to the Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre on the waterfront. Visited a few booths and enjoyed their exhibitions.
Alex enjoyed the canoe carving. After we drove to the Real Canadian Superstore (a Canadian grocery chain) and left Doranya in their parking lot. There was a big Swiss Overlander truck parked across from us.
A family with two young kids was travelling around the world. Must be rich, because shipping this monster costs a fortune. Let alone the monster itself. Anyhow, we chatted a bit with them and off we went to the bakery. Their breads are extraordinary. We’d buy two after we have lunch there. Then we wandered around.
There was a café we stopped by, but I have already had my cappuccino at the bakery. Rather strong coffee. We found fresh turbot at one of the grocery stores and bought some for one of the dinners. Small potatoes and some vegetables. There were many more things to do and see in Whitehorse, but if we wanted to be at Michael’s at a decent time we have to leave. The rest – on our way back. Or so we thought.
I didn’t expect the drive to Haines Junction to be so spectacular with typical mountain winding ups and downs, twists and turns. There was also quite some traffic. Mountains in the distance calling us. While Alex was driving, I exchanged a few messages with Michael. He’s meet us at a gas station “Fas Gas”. Their street is under construction so he has to guide us through other areas. (Oh, we know these street constructions. We lived through the dust of our street being dug up in 2016. It definitely is not fun!)
Michael led us to their house and we parked Doranya parallel to the house in their driveway. It would be a different story trying to get out of there, but for this later. We have finally reached our destination. All as scheduled to the hour. Our hosts welcoming to their little paradise.
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