Storyline: Portugal Take 2
Lisbon
We arrived in Lisbon exactly a year after we there in January 2023. Arranged to stay with our old hosts with whom we had kept in touch.
Nice little apartment but why are the stairs steeper than last year?
Lisbon met us with a light fog which made for good photos. It seemed colder than last year (eh, at max around 17C it is a far cry from the extreme cold back home).
We had a few days to get over the jet lag. We revisited some places in the area.
Notably, Casanova, the interesting pizza place on the River Tagus across from Sta. Apolonia station, where everyone is seated at big long tables (so no strangers here) and if you want to order you pull the string of a light above your table and when it lights, the server knows you need service. Once your order is taken the waiter tuns the light off. Of course, no English on the menu, but it is not that difficult to get around it, especially with Google translate.
We also revisited café Copenhagen. It was around the corner from our accommodation and we thought it was unique, until we discovered that it is a chain of cafés, not only in Lisbon but throughout Europe: Copenhagen Coffee Lab.
It is a bakery and has these wonderful rye breads that last forever. Great sandwiches, cinnamon buns and more.
Evora (basecamp Lisbon)
After strolling for two days around Lisbon, we were ready to visit Evora, a city of whitewashed houses and a rich history. Since it was a little out of the way we had skipped it last year. Now was the time for a day trip.
And so I booked a hotel half way between the train station and the walled city.
Wish we stayed longer there, but as it turned out the second night would have been a waste.
It is a pretty little town with my name written all over (eh probably the other way around😊). The ancient Roman Temple is the Temple of Diana, the street our hotel was had my name in it, the gardens next to the temple were Gardens of Diana
and there was even a market named after me. We had a nice dinner and then a unique cocktail, specialty of the hotel bar, on the rooftop.
The hotel was fantastic and not expensive.
The best hotel buffet we’ve ever had in terms of variety and quality. From hot breakfast, yogurts to die for, breads and croissants, cereals, jams, dry fruits, cheeses, salami, hams and prosciuttos, and a great selection of fresh fruits.
We walked on the rooftop and took photos of the city from there, but it was a bit chilly for the swimming pool (not that I’d use it anyway).
The day started well. It was sunny with blue skies, and we were eager to get going. The white houses perched on a small hill across from the hotel were calling us.
After breakfast, we headed out to the old walled city. An entrance gate was close to the hotel.
Based on location I suggested we first visit the aqueduct and then head in for the rest of the attractions. Glad Alex agreed, because we would not have visited it if we started from the city centre and it was the most unique attraction for me.
We’ve seen quite a few around Europe, but this one was really different. Houses are built into the wall’s arches. The front entrances are in the walls.
As I was taking photos a guy walked out of one of them and invited me to take a photo of his workshop. So nice of him.
Pity I couldn’t chat with him. My Portuguese goes as far as Obrigado/Obrigada, vinho tinto and vinho branco and a few more words.
The viaduct started from ground level and rose above us as we walked downhill (it is aqueduct after all). As the arches become taller so were the houses built into them.
The taller the arches the bigger and richer the houses.
Whitewashed houses surround the Gothic Cathedral the construction of which begun in 12th century. Evora is a UNESCO world heritage site. Its historic centre is well preserved and the medieval walls enclosing the city are still standing in many parts.
As we walked by the Cathedral, Alex said he wasn’t feeling well (that’s an understatement: I couldn’t then walk another step, never mind the cathedral’s stairs – A).
He sat on a bench in front of the cathedral. Climbing 106 steps to the top of the tower was out. So were the other attractions. But there was plenty of time before our train back to Lisbon.
After Alex gathered some strength, I literally dragged him out to a restaurant. We had lunch, I had wine, then coffee trying to stretch the time (I had chamomile tea with honey – A). Restaurant was closing at 3PM and we still had plenty of time before boarding the train.
We walked slowly through the town (downhill, Yay! – A) and reached the train station long before our scheduled departure. Did I say it was a small city?
Fortunately, the train was already waiting and we settled comfortably while Alex snoozed…or as he calls it…passed out.)
Lagos (via Lisbon)
The next day Alex literally slept in the Lisbon apartment and then on the train to Lagos. He had also developed a disturbing cough.
I had booked 8 days in a nice Airbnb apartment with the idea we explore more of the area, especially around Sagres. Alex was sick our whole time there.
One thing that collaborated with his sickness was the constant rain and strong winds. It was a nice apartment with a separate bedroom and kitchen and 2 sofa beds in the living room.
I restricted myself to the bedroom and cooking in the kitchen, while Alex was suffering on the living room couch. Aside from some fever the cough became quite “productive” and severe.
The sun eventually came through the last two days. We managed to walk by the water and have some lunch and sangria on the market rooftop both days.
We even met a Canadian couple the second day. What are the chances to do this in Portugal? We’d meet yet another old couple (not that we are young, but he had a walker) in the train from Coibmra to Porto.
They were coming from Lisbon and lived in GTA (Greater Toronto Area) too. After Porto they were planning a month in the Algarve.
After 8 uneventful days in Lagos (cough, cough, cough – A), we left for our last two nights in Lisbon.
We had them specifically scheduled so we could meet Alex’s relatives working at the Canadian Embassy. Posted there just last summer after our first visit in Portugal.
But with Alex’s constant cough and low stamina this was not to be. We had a two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment so again Alex’s coughing didn’t bother me at night.
During the day we enjoyed the strolls by the water. Although every time we sat somewhere, Alex would begin to fall asleep. And the coughing fits continued.
There was a nice pub on our street. We had dinners there and I discovered really nice wine. First evening Alex didn’t touch it, but the next evening he ordered a bottle of it. I could tell he was feeling better then.
And off we went to Coimbra the next day.
Join the conversation around our e-Table