Storyline: 50 years later
April 24, 2018
York is a happy city and we love it. With its incredible architecture, lively pubs and cafes, restaurants that cater to any budget and diet, street performers on every corner, vibrant markets, museums, art and entertainment, beautiful parks and gardens and the river meandering through the city, there is something for everyone. It is a city that sums up the history of Britain. From Celts, Norse, Romans, Normans, through to today, York has it all. Just walk around and you will find it. Yes, it is small and compact, small enough that even the sworn motorhead will enjoy walking it.
It was our leisurely, slow pace, longish-stay city. We rented an apartment for 5 nights and the plan was to take trains to neighbouring towns when bored of York. We never did. Get bored of York that is. And managed to only take one day trip. To Durham. That left us with three and a half days in York, of which one was spent in the fascinating National Railway Museum.
We walked from the train station on a sunny Friday afternoon, rolling our carry-ons up the hill, outside the ancient wall. Green leaves and spring flowers everywhere. Self-checked into a lovely apartment across from the Fishergate Bar gate and next to The Barbican Centre (an indoor entertainment venue).
For any stay of more than 2 nights we prefer to rent an apartment, cottage or house depending on budget and availability. What a wonderful place I had found: full of light, spacious, views of the wall and the old city, clean, comfortable and quiet. Aside from the usual tea, coffee and breakfast supplies, our host had left us a few local beers in the fridge. Cheers!
Didn’t waste time, and took off to explore our new city. First to walk through the old town, perhaps grab a bite to eat, and on our way back find the grocery store. Pretty soon we reached the old town and pedestrian areas and stumbled onto the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall with lovely patio in the gardens. People were enjoying the sun everywhere they could. Unfortunately, the kitchen had just closed and since it was late afternoon by then, we did need a bite to eat. Built in 1357 this guildhall was the most important building in the medieval city. We toured the museum before continuing our quest for a bit to eat.
Continuing towards the centre we eventually found a table on a sunny patio. There is a little story to be told here. We shared pasta and a small bottle of wine, cappuccino and tea. The bill, scribbled on a piece of paper, came to £15. There was a cashier inside where Alex paid and we continued our city walk.
We passed through York Shambles market, toured York Minster and its gardens, strolled behind the walls taking photos of daffodils, reached our area and did some grocery shopping, had dinner and some of the beer our host Steffen had left for us.
Not always, but when we have time, we go through our bills for the day and record them in our Excel expense spreadsheet. It had been a long day: we had left Settle in the morning, changed trains at Leeds, walked through York. There wasn’t enough time to review all the photos we took, but perhaps we could record the spending… wait a second. Did we not pay £15 at the restaurant? Why is the bill for £75? We logged into our bank and yes, the card was charged with £75. Perhaps the number 1 was read as 7 by the cashier. Pretty expensive pasta that was. But we had photos of the table and all we had then. First thing next morning, after having coffee (tea for Alex. He says it’s more civilized – kidding) and breakfast of course, we headed back to the place, prepared with our photos and ready to dispute the bloody expensive pasta. We didn’t need all the ammunition though. The cashier listened to the explanation, then talked to her manager, who gave us the £60 in cash. Did I say York is a happy city? Well, and a little moral – check what you’ve been charged before you put the receipt in your wallet… and it doesn’t hurt to have a photo of the table with your consumables, to back your night sleep.
Next day was to walk all the way around the city on the city walls, which we did, end to end, taking tons of photos. Although most is still standing, parts are long gone. There we walked on the wall’s imaginary line, then back up onto the next section. We noticed a nice café on the Walmgate Bar.
After finishing with the wall walk, we took the laptop from our flat nearby and went back to the Gatehouse Coffee café, enjoying the sun, the people around: me writing my notes while sipping cappuccino and Alex reading the “11 minutes late” book that I had bought in Settle, with tea to dilute it.
It is an interesting climb up narrow stairs from the tower café up to the terrace, especially for the waiters.
After a while we moved on to the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall for a light lunch. Shared a soup and chocolate cake with a glass of wine each.
While I was processing and deleting some of our photos, Alex was busy taking more.
Then through the city, a few more wall gates, called Bars, to Museum Gardens and the grounds of ruined medieval St. Mary’s Abbey. It was still sunny and light.
The city was beautiful from every angle: seen from the wall or walking though its streets: the fresh green, the daffodils, the patios full of joyful people.
Maybe because it was sunny, maybe because it was weekend, but we had the feeling that the entire UK was in York that day. By the afternoon one could not set a foot in any pub or garden. It was busy, and often loud.
Street music every 100 meters or far enough that when you barely stop hearing one you start hearing another. We soaked up the sun at our leisurely pace and were surprised nevertheless how much of the old city we covered.
There are many museums to visit, but being sun-deprived up until our arrival in York we decided that enjoying the sunshine while walking through the city was a priority over museums. We did spend our last day in the Railway museum, which is really something that should be on your list, especially if you are a train enthusiast. But that is for another post.
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